How many chickens to get is a personal decision and will depend on several factors including how many chickens are allowed in your area, how much space you have, and how many you want. We recommend a minimum of 3–4 hens for beginners because chickens are highly social animals.

Again, this is a personal preference, but roosters are often disallowed by local ordinances due to their noise level. Roosters can be aggressive but will also provide protection for your hens against predators and can help to manage flock dynamics.

If fresh eggs are your primary goal, a rooster is not necessary. Laying hens will produce eggs regardless of a rooster’s presence. If your goal is to produce fertilized eggs and hatch more chickens, you will need a rooster.

There are hundreds of chicken breeds, each with unique qualities and traits that make them distinct. Larger breeds will be more robust and cold hardy, while smaller breeds like bantams are popular in suburban areas and with families as they require less backyard space and bond easily with humans.

The breed of chicken you select can determine their lifespan, egg laying productivity, personality, appearance, and health outcomes. However, even within breeds, all chickens have distinct personalities, and it may not match the breed’s typical standard.

The number of eggs will depend on the breed and age of the chicken as well as the weather (chickens may have lower productivity in extreme temperatures) and nutrition status (healthy, well-fed chickens will lay more eggs).

These breeds are favored for their high efficiency, consistency, and ability to lay through varied conditions:

• ISA Brown: 300–350 brown eggs/year
• Golden Comet: 280–320 brown eggs/year
• White Leghorn: 280–300 white eggs/year
• Black Star/Hybrid: 280–320 brown eggs/year
• Rhode Island Red: 250–300 brown eggs/year
• Black Australorp: 250–300 brown eggs/year
• Ameraucana: blue or green eggs

These breeds are known for being docile and hardy, making them excellent choices for backyard flocks with children. They are also prolific, often producing 200–300+ eggs per year.

• Golden Comet
• Buff Orpington
• Black Australorp
• Plymouth Rock (Barred Rock)
• Sussex (Speckled or Light)
• Rhode Island Red

The best cold-weather chickens are typically heavy-bodied, dense-feathered breeds with small combs (like pea or rose combs) to prevent frostbite.

• Chantecler
• Wyandotte
• Brahma
• Buckeye
• Black Australorp
• Cochin
• Ameraucana
• Delaware

The best chickens for hot weather are typically light-bodied, active foragers with large combs and wattles that help dissipate heat.

• Leghorns
• Minorcas & Andalusians
• Naked Necks (Turkens)
• Rhode Island Reds & New Hampshire Reds
• Australorps
• Egyptian Fayoumis
• Sicilian Buttercups

From the outside, a fertilized egg looks like an unfertilized egg. But inside, the fertilized egg shows a white bullseye on the yolk’s germ spot indicating both male and female cells while the unfertilized egg shows a solid white spot, indicating female-only cells. Another key difference between the two is that fertilized eggs require a rooster in the flock.

Fertilized eggs should be stored with their pointed end down, between 53°F–59°F and incubated within 7-10 days of being laid. A hen will naturally begin incubating her eggs by sitting on them for 21 days, keeping them warm and periodically turning them over with her beak.

Hatching eggs in an incubator is easier than you might think. For the first 18 days, eggs need a consistent temperature of 99.5°F and relative humidity of 45–50%. They also need to be turned between 3-5 times a day for even incubation. RentACoop’s 16 Egg Smart Incubator will do all of this for you, so you can simply sit back and enjoy the process.

During the first 18 days of incubation, the embryo inside the egg undergoes rapid developments. The brain and spinal cord begin forming, and the heart starts beating. Major organs and feathers develop; the beak hardens and the chick practices pecking motions inside the egg.

On day 18, the “lockdown” phase starts. Turning will automatically stop (but if you are manually turning, now is the time to stop) and humidity will need to increase to 65-75% inside the incubator to prevent the membrane from drying. It is now crucial to keep the incubator closed until all eggs have hatched.

By day 20, the chick should have absorbed the rest of the yolk sac, which provides essential nutrients for the first hours and days after hatching. The chick will position itself near the air sac to take its first breath and pip (break a small hole in) the shell using a special “egg tooth” on its beak. Then, the chick will turn inside the shell and use their egg tooth to crack a circular line around the top of the egg, known as a “zipper,” to create a lid that it can push off. This is a very tiring process for the chick and can last 24 hours.

The first thing to do is wait. Chicks will emerge wet and exhausted and should remain inside the incubator until they are fully dry and recovered, which can take a day or more. They do not need food or water for the first 24-48 hours. They may appear dead or listless at first, but this is likely due to extreme exhaustion from hatching, and they will soon dry into fluffy, active peepers with soft downy feathers.

Chicks are born in an advanced state (known as precocial) and can feed and move independently almost immediately. Still, they are fragile in the first few weeks.

Once the chicks are fully dry, they can move into a chick brooder. Instructions on setting up a chick brooder can be found below.

Don’t panic! There are several reasons why an egg might not hatch “on time.” Often, this is the result of low temperatures or high humidity inside the incubator. However, it can also signal an egg from an older hen, or simply a breed that has a longer incubation timeline. Eggs should be left in the incubator until day 24. Avoid opening the incubator as this leads to shifts in humidity that can cause the membrane to dry out, making it harder for the chick to break out or dry off (known as “shrink-wrapped” or “sticky” chicks).

To check if the embryo is still alive, hold the built-in candling light or a flashlight up to the egg in a dark room. If you see movement inside, the chick is still developing and may still hatch over the next 24 hours. Check for any signs the chick is trying to hatch, including small holes – known as pips – or cracks in the egg.

If eggs are still not hatched by day 25, it is likely the embryo has not survived and should be carefully disposed of or composted.

A shrink-wrapped chick becomes trapped in their shell. Often, this is because too low humidity inside the incubator during lockdown causes the inner membrane to become dry and tight, and the membrane clings to the chick. This prevents the chick from rotating inside the shell to “zipper” its way out. This can also be the result of opening the incubator during the lockdown phase.

Signs that you might have a shrink-wrapped chick include a visibly white, dry, leathery membrane. The chick may chirp loudly inside the egg but make little progress for 24 hours after an initial pip. If this happens, gentle intervention may be necessary. Use a Q-Tip to soften the membrane with a little warm water, being careful not to drown the chick. If you see bright red blood vessels, do not proceed. This means the chick has not yet absorbed their yolk sac and should stay inside the egg. If the membrane is dry and the chick is stuck, you may need to gently assist with hatching by picking away pieces of the shell, starting near the air sac.

Sticky chicks emerge from their shell covered in a thick goo called albumen that remains wet but can also harden. The main cause of this is too high humidity levels during the lockdown phase, hampering the absorption of albumin, but it can also be the result of low temperatures or improper turning during incubation, or the result of older or excessively large eggs. This can lead to a myriad of issues, including an inability to dry or fluff, and mobility issues. It can lead to fatality if not properly addressed.

To treat a sticky chick, gently soak the chick in warm water to soften the goo. Use a soft toothbrush or Q-Tip to clean the chick and remove any residue, then thoroughly dry the chick with a towel or low-heat hairdryer to prevent chilling. Return the chick to the incubator to fully dry out.

Chick season runs from late February through early fall, with spring being the most popular time to purchase chicks. Spring chicks mature during the warm, sunnier months and usually begin laying in late summer or early fall.

While older hens may molt and reduce egg production in winter, young hens (pullets) frequently continue laying despite shorter daylight hours.

Many farm stores kick off chick season by hosting “chick days” beginning in late February, where they will offer a variety of common breeds on a first come basis. Farm and feed stores frequently sell out of chicks in a matter of hours and may impose limits on the number of chicks an individual can buy.

It is also perfectly safe to order chicks online through a NPIP-certified hatchery. Chicks will arrive in the mail via USPS Priority Mail. Chicks can survive the journey having absorbed enough nutrients from their yolk sac to sustain them for 24-48 hours. They will need access to food and water as soon as they are unboxed.

If you have a specific breed in mind, or specific dates you need the chicks, you can pre-order your chicks from a hatchery or farm store as early as January.

A brooder is a safe, enclosed space with a heated portion that stimulates the warmth and care of a mother hen and is necessary for the first 6 weeks of a chick’s life.

A brooder set-up can be as simple as a cardboard box with absorbent bedding, an elevated feeder and waterer, and a heat source. If you decide to DIY a brooder, you will need the following supplies:

Heat source

Heating plates are the best option, as they are safer than heat lamps, use less electricity, and with adjustable height settings, allow chicks to self-regulate their temperature.

Enclosure

A draft free and secure space where chicks will spend their first 6 weeks. Plan for ½ sq ft per chick, or enough room to allow them to move away from the heat source if they get too hot. We recommend the Litte Red Bard Brooder for beginners, which can accommodate up to 6 chicks.

Bedding

For weeks 1-3 we recommend using hatchling liners that are absorbent, soft, and stable for new walkers and waddlers and have a leakproof liner to quick and easy clean up. For weeks 3-6 you can transition to jute liners which are biodegradable and compostable. Hemp bedding is recommended thereafter but is also safe to use with chicks. From a performance standpoint, hemp manages moisture, odor, dust, and cleanliness better than other standard bedding options.

Food

Chicks need a specialized high-protein diet to support their rapid growth for the first 6 weeks of life. Chick starter feed can be found online or in feed stores. RentACoop’s Chick2Chicken Port Feeder is safe and accessible for chicks as young as 3 days old, through adult chickens.

Water

Chicks need specialized waterers to accommodate their small size. Our Versatile Drinker features a vertical nipple that stimulates the chick’s natural pecking behavior and is easy to train them to use. It is a popular choice because it keeps water clean (chicks can be quite messy!), which is essential for preventing life threatening illnesses— like coccidiosis — caused by drinking dirty water. Chicks should never be exposed to open pools of water, such as a baby pool or even a small dish of water, as they can drown even in shallow water.

Grit

Chick grit should be offered to chicks alongside their starter feed starting at 2 weeks, free choice and in a separate container. Grit is an insoluble particle that aids digestion by helping chicks to grind up their food and break down fiber and whole grains. It improves nutrient absorption and helps to prevent pasty butt, a common but potentially serious condition where their droppings stick to the downy feathers around their vent, blocking and preventing the chick from defecating. This can lead to a buildup of toxins.

Do not confuse grit with oyster shell, which is a calcium supplement given to laying hens to help them produce strong eggshells. Oyster shell should not be given to chicks as it can damage their kidneys.

To simplify the chick-raising process, our Eggsperts recommend using a brooder set, like the RentACoop Little Red Barn Brooder Set, which can comfortably accommodate up to 8 chicks. This set comes with everything you need to raise healthy and happy chicks in the first 6 weeks, including a heating plate, chick-safe feeder and waterer, bedding liners, and instructions. It has a clear sliding door that provides a nice view of your growing chicks, promotes bonding, and helps them acclimate to their new surroundings. As a bonus, the red barn brooder can double as an isolation station or transport carrier for adult hens, and folds flat for storage.

You can expect to collect 4–6 eggs per week from healthy hens during peak production. Peak egg production is around 25–35 weeks old, and production usually declines by 10–15% annually. Hens often slow or stop laying altogether between 5–7 years old. For this reason, owners often rotate in new hens every 2–3 years.

Ensure you have enough room in your existing coop to accommodate more birds or upgrade your space. We recommend 3–4 square feet per bird inside the coop, 8–10 square feet per bird in the run, and 1 nesting box for every 3–4 hens. Ample space prevents overcrowding and aggressive behavior.

New chickens should be quarantined for 4–8 weeks in an isolated area that is at least 10 feet away from your existing flock (and ideally downwind). This is to ensure the new birds do not introduce any germs to your existing flock.

Monitor them daily for diseases like Avian Influenza (21-day incubation), parasites, and respiratory issues. Implement strict biosecurity measures to prevent cross contamination such as using separate equipment for each flock and cleaning shoes, clothes, and hands after handling.

If new birds show any signs of illness, consult a poultry veterinarian before introducing them to your existing flock.

Slowly and carefully introduce new chickens to an existing flock. Let new birds see the old flock through fencing for a few days to minimize fighting.

Or you can use the Big Red Barn brooder to house your new chicken for a few days within the coop and run. The clear door provides visual access without allowing existing chickens physical access. This way, they can slowly get used to one another before free ranging and sleeping in the coop together.

To reduce stress, move birds at dusk when they are calmer and less likely to panic. Once introduced, reduce stress for all your chickens by setting up multiple feeding and watering stations to reduce competition.

Use enrichment tools, such as treat dispensers and perches, to stimulate their natural behaviors and keep them active and engaged. A bored chicken is a bullying chicken!

Monitor closely for bullying or aggressive behavior, and isolate chickens that are hurt. Signs of stress include decreased egg production, feather picking, egg eating, reduced appetite, or lethargy.

You can either buy or build a coop. Whether you build or buy depends on budget, timeline, and skill level. Building is often more affordable and customizable but requires time and labor. Buying is convenient and faster but offers fewer design options and will likely be more expensive. Whichever route you choose, quality and safety are the most important factors.

Always check local ordinances and HOA rules for setback requirements. Ideally, place your coop on high, level, well-drained ground with a mix of sun and shade. Position where you have easy access for cleaning and egg collection, with protection from prevailing winds and predators.

At minimum, your coop should include 3–4 square feet per bird inside the coop, and 8–10 square feet per bird in the run. Inside the chicken coop, you will need:

• Nesting boxes: 1 box per 3–4 hens
• Roost bars: Elevated perches for sleeping
• Ventilation: Draft-free airflow to reduce moisture and ammonia buildup
• Moisture control: Absorbent bedding such as hemp

Elevated construction, secure latches, and predator-proof materials (like hardware cloth, not chicken wire) are strongly recommended.

How often you clean your chicken coop will depend on personal preference and flock size. Chickens will poop anywhere, and frequently, including overnight, so routine cleaning is essential. When properly maintained, backyard chickens should not smell, and odors usually signal moisture buildup or poor ventilation.

Spot clean bedding every few days by removing droppings and wet spots. Replace bedding as needed. Perform a full cleanout every few months or 2–3 times per year if using the Deep Litter Method. Clean feeders and waterers regularly, especially during warm weather.

Chickens are hardy animals and tolerate cold better than heat. They are fine to be outside year-round except for extreme temperatures.

In the winter, ensure the coop has proper ventilation without drafts. Provide fresh, unfrozen water daily (which is easy to provide with a heated strap around your existing waterer). In the summer, provide shade, airflow, and constant access to clean, fresh water. For chickens, heat stress is more dangerous than cold so check in on your flock frequently.

Chickens attract both ground and aerial predators, including raccoons, foxes, dogs, weasels, hawks, and owls.

To protect your flock, use hardware cloth (not chicken wire) to close any gaps. Secure all openings with predator-proof latches. Use electric fencing to deter ground predators, and cover runs to prevent aerial attacks.

Yes, chickens can free-range. Importantly, free ranging allows natural foraging and enrichment. But it carries a higher predator risk.

An enclosed run provides safety and controlled access. Many keepers use a combination of both, allowing their chickens to free range when being watched. Whether free ranging or in a run, chickens naturally return to their coop at dusk and rarely stray far from food and shelter.

A chicken’s diet depends on their age, but will include a mix of feed, grit, and supplemental nutrition:

Feed:

• 0–6 weeks: chicks should only eat chick starter feed, a high protein feed designed to support rapid growth
• 6–18 weeks: transition to grower feed or continue with starter feed
• 18+ weeks: chickens should eat layer feed with added calcium for egg production

Feed should make up most of their diet. Adult hens eat approximately ¼ pound of feed per day. Offer free-choice access to feed.

Grit, Oyster Shell, and Treats:

Grit is an insoluble particle that chickens use to grind food up in their gizzard in the absence of teeth. It should be offered free choice starting around 2 weeks old in a separate container.

Oyster shell provides supplemental calcium for strong eggshells and bone density. It should be given only to laying hens after 18 weeks old, free choice and in a separate container.

Treats should make up no more than 10% of a chicken’s diet. Safe options include mealworms and table scraps including leafy greens, vegetables, and fruits. Avoid processed and salty foods.

Access to clean, fresh water is critical for egg production and overall health and should always be available to your flock.

In warmer months, refill waterers frequently and keep them in the shade to prevent overheating. In cold months, prevent freezing with heated waterers.

Chickens need a complete, balanced poultry feed as their primary diet. Kitchen scraps should be treated as treats.

A hybrid chicken is a bird made by crossing two or more distinct breeds or strains to maximize traits like high egg production, fast growth, or hardiness. Unlike pure breeds, these "high-performance" chickens do not breed true, meaning their offspring will not retain the same desirable traits.

Laying hens are domesticated female chickens, typically 20 weeks or older, specifically raised for high-volume commercial or backyard egg production. They are different from broiler chickens (raised for meat) and are bred to efficiently produce hundreds of eggs annually.

Roosting is the natural behavior of chickens perching off the ground to sleep at night. In the wild, this instinct protects them from predators. In a backyard coop, chickens will perch on roost bars (usually rounded wooden bars) once they are a few weeks old. Providing adequate roost space helps prevent stress and crowding.

The pecking order is the social hierarchy within a flock. Chickens establish rank to determine access to food, nesting boxes, and preferred roosting spots. Some pecking and minor squabbles are normal while the order is being established. However, excessive bullying, injury, or persistent aggression may require intervention.

Pasty butt is a common condition in baby chicks where droppings stick to and block the vent (the chick’s rear opening). If left untreated, it can prevent the chick from passing waste and become life-threatening. It’s usually caused by stress, temperature fluctuations, or shipping. Gently cleaning the area with warm water typically resolves the issue.

A sticky or shrink-wrapped chick is one that has difficulty hatching because the membrane inside the egg dries out and sticks to its body. This often happens when humidity levels are too low during incubation. It can make it hard for the chick to fully emerge from the shell.

Molting is the natural process where chickens shed old feathers and grow new ones, usually once a year in the fall. During this time, egg production often slows or stops because the bird’s energy is directed toward feather regrowth. Molting can last several weeks.

Most hens begin laying between 18–24 weeks of age, depending on breed and season. If you bring home chicks in the spring, you can expect to have eggs by late summer or early fall.

Most healthy hens lay 4–6 eggs per week during peak production.

Chickens do not attract rats — feed does. Any time grain is stored or spilled outdoors, it can attract rodents. The good news is that with proper management, rats and mice are highly preventable.

To reduce rodent risk:

• Store feed securely: Keep feed in sealed metal containers with tight lids.
• Clean up spilled feed daily: Loose grain attracts rodents.
• Use elevated or treadle feeders: These minimize waste.
• Remove food at night if needed: Especially in high-rodent areas.
• Keep the coop tidy: Regular cleaning reduces food debris.

With proper storage and routine maintenance, backyard chickens should not attract rats or mice.

Chickens love to scratch, peck, and dig as part of their natural foraging behavior.

• They may scratch up grass in high-traffic areas.
• They may damage garden beds, mulch, and young plants.
• They may create dust-bathing holes in dry soil.

Many backyard keepers use a hybrid approach:

• A secure enclosed run for daily safety
• Supervised free-range time
• Fencing around gardens
• Rotating yard access

Chickens can thrive in small suburban yards with thoughtful planning.

Healthy chickens themselves do not smell bad. What causes odor is usually a poorly managed coop — not the birds. With proper setup and routine care, odor is very manageable, even in suburban backyards.

Chickens are hardy animals, but like any livestock they can become sick if they live in damp, poorly ventilated, or stressful conditions or if they receive poor nutrition. Fortunately, most common health problems are preventable with good coop management, proper nutrition, and regular observation of your flock.